having read quite a few excellent books lately, I may be compensating somewhat and giving the downgrade to 3/5. this is considered a mountaineering classic and rates highly on the lists and independently on the absolute score. but compared to Krakauer's cast of characters, and the most dramatic events surrounding Everest, sometimes Herzog's twists of phrase are a little cloying / annoying. 3/5 for now, possible upgrade.
Herzog's achievement-- first 8000m peak climbed; mountain still consdiered far more difficutl than Chomolangma/Everest.